How to Use a Work Sharp Knife Sharpener: Precision Adjust, Belt and Field Models

Precision Adjust: clamp, set, stroke

The Precision Adjust holds the knife in a V-clamp on a base, and you set the angle on a dial, typically from 15 to 30 degrees. Clamp the blade at its center of balance so it sits level and does not tip. Color the bevel with a marker, set the angle, and take a few strokes to see where the ink comes off; adjust a degree up or down until it removes evenly from shoulder to edge.

Use the coarsest diamond side of the abrasive rod only on a dull knife. Stroke from heel to tip with light pressure, covering the full edge, until a burr forms on the other side. Flip the clamp to the other side and repeat. Move to the finer diamond, then to the ceramic, with fewer and lighter strokes. Finish with alternating single strokes on the ceramic to remove the burr. The Elite version adds more abrasives and a strop, used in the same order.

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Belt models: Knife and Tool, and Ken Onion

These use a small flexible abrasive belt and a guide that sets the angle, fixed on the original Knife and Tool sharpener and adjustable on the Ken Onion edition. Fit the coarsest belt only if the knife is very dull; most knives start on a medium belt. Set the angle (around 15 to 20 degrees for kitchen knives, 20 to 25 for outdoor knives). Hold the blade flat against the guide, heel at the belt, and draw it through toward you at a slow, steady pace, letting the belt do the work.

Alternate sides one pass at a time, typically 5 or so passes per side on a dull knife and fewer on the finer belts. Slow down at the tip and do not let it drop off the belt, which rounds the point. Never stop with the blade sitting on the moving belt, and keep passes short to avoid heat. Finish on the finest belt with light alternating passes. Because the belt flexes, the result is a slightly convex edge, which is strong and keeps its bite well.

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Guided Field Sharpener

The Guided Field Sharpener is a compact hand tool with two diamond plates, a ceramic rod, a leather strop and fold-out angle guides at 20 and 25 degrees. Lay the blade flat against the guide, then lift it straight onto the plate keeping that angle, and stroke from heel to tip. Work the coarse plate until a burr forms, switch sides, then move to the fine plate.

Use the ceramic rod for serrations and for touch-ups between sharpenings, and the grooved part of the rod for fish hooks. Finish with a few passes on the leather strop, edge trailing. The field sharpener is designed for outdoor knives; the 20 degree guide is the right one for most hunting and pocket knives.

Field sharpeners for fillet knives →

Pull-through kitchen sharpener

The Work Sharp pull-through has a coarse and a fine diamond stage. Place it on the counter, hold it by the handle, and draw the knife through the coarse slot from heel to tip with light pressure, 3 to 5 times, keeping the blade vertical. Repeat in the fine slot. Skip the coarse slot when the knife is only slightly dull.

It is the quickest Work Sharp to use and needs no setup, but the angle is fixed by the slot, so it suits a household's everyday kitchen knives better than a collection of knives with different angles.

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Getting the angle right on any model

Match the angle to the knife. Most Western kitchen knives are 17 to 20 degrees per side, most Japanese knives 15, and pocket and hunting knives 20 to 25. The marker trick works on all Work Sharp models: color the bevel, make one or two passes, and adjust until the ink is removed evenly. Matching the existing bevel takes far less steel and time than grinding a new one.

Once you have found the right setting for a knife, write it down. Repeating the same angle each time is the main advantage of a guided sharpener, and it makes later sharpenings very quick.

Sharpening angle chart →

Frequently asked questions

What angle should I use on a Work Sharp? Around 15 degrees for Japanese kitchen knives, 17 to 20 for Western kitchen knives, and 20 to 25 for pocket, hunting and utility knives. Matching the knife's existing bevel is best.

How many passes on a Work Sharp belt sharpener? About 5 alternating passes per side on a coarse or medium belt for a dull knife, then a few lighter passes per side on each finer belt. Stop as soon as a burr has formed along the whole edge.

Can a Work Sharp sharpen serrated knives? The belt models can touch up serrated knives with light passes, and the ceramic rods on the Precision Adjust and Field Sharpener can work each serration. A tapered rod gives the most control.

Why is the tip of my knife getting rounded? On a belt model, the tip is dropping off the belt at the end of the pass. Slow down and keep the tip on the belt until the pass is complete.